Jo’burg’s Finest:
Fine Dining in the City of Gold
Johannesburg, the ever-enthralling travel destination, is the City of Gold in every sense. With every visit, I find myself enchanted by the city’s exuberance its energetic people, bold architecture, and larger-than-life culture. On my most recent foray into Jo’burg, I decided to indulge myself with a taste of the finer things, sampling the city’s fine dining scene, and I’m delighted to report that it was worth every cent and second spent!
Set against Johannesburg’s lively summer backdrop, experience an immersive exploration of the city’s fine dining scene. The journey begins at Qunu, where local ingredients and global techniques converge in an artfully curated tasting menu. Later, the story moves to Flames, where cocktails and seafood are enjoyed against panoramic city views. Through thoughtful narration and sensory detail, catch a glimpse into Jo’burg’s layered identity cosmopolitan yet rooted, indulgent yet grounded, and always full of personality.
I travelled to Jo’burg at the height of summer, when the city pulses with almost tangible energy. Upon arrival at the airport and eager to start my vacation, I promptly hailed a cab to my hotel. Despite my desire for a silent commute, the driver was chatty and friendly, gently stringing me into conversation. After I told him where I was from, he excitedly replied, “Ah, muli bwanji! My Zambian sister,” and I burst into laughter. Jo’burg was already beginning to win me over. He asked about my plans, and I outlined an elaborate food tour covering six restaurants. After a short pause, he asked me to consider limiting my list for a more relaxed experience.
The next day, I ventured out to my first stop, Qunu Restaurant at The Saxon Hotel. I was drawn to this establishment for various reasons. Located in the tranquil Sandhurst area of Sandton, the restaurant combines international sensibilities with local flair in its culinary offerings. Interestingly, the restaurant is named after Nelson Mandela’s hometown in the Eastern Cape, reinforcing their commitment to celebrating local heritage, as I discovered during my research.
Uncovering the City of Gold
My initial plans included an early coffee and brunch, but relaxation was the aim of the vacation, and I decided to take a more leisurely approach. Although it was a hot day, the sun was hidden behind a thicket of clouds, which made for pleasant weather. With nature on my side, I lazily made my way to Qunu Restaurant. The cab driver wasn’t chatty this time but opted to treat me to a wide-ranging and enjoyable sonic experience. He played everything from dreamy house songs by Kelvin Momo to heart-pumping amapiano tracks by Kabza De Small. After fifteen minutes, I finally arrived at The Saxon, where I was greeted with a warm smile by a serene attendant who graciously directed me to the restaurant.
The restaurant’s décor was beautifully understated, with vibrant wall art complementing the room’s wood accents. I took my seat and was immediately attended to by a waiter. As this was an exercise in indulgence, I opted for the tasting menu. Within minutes, the waiter emerged with duck canapés and the glass of Pinotage I’d selected from the menu. The canapés were a humble yet welcoming opening to the feast ahead, and the deep notes of the wine elevated their flavours immensely.
Next came what can only be described as a curated aubergine dish and a vetkoek (fritter) served with Cape Malay pickled fish and tomato jam. Encountering a vetkoek at a fine dining experience was surprisingly delightful, undoubtedly embodying the restaurant’s ethos of elevating the African dining experience. The waiter explained that, under the stewardship of Executive Chef Matthew Foxon and Head Chef Scott Dressels, Qunu has become a pilgrimage destination for bold dining experiences that are both a homecoming and a celebration of cuisine.
As I savoured the remnants of the last dish on my palate, I was served a carpaccio accompanied by a palate cleanser, setting the stage for the star of the show: the Angus. The beef sirloin was served with a red pepper purée and asparagus. The meat, expertly seared to a lovely pink medium, was tender and bursting with flavour as the uncomplicated choice of seasoning allowed it to shine. The asparagus added freshness and texture, while the red pepper purée added a tangy sweetness that rounded off the dish. I wished the meal would last forever as I slopped what was left of the sauce on the plate. My tasting experience ended with a bright and delightful lemon dessert that was an ode to summertime. As the waiter cleared my table, I pondered whether I could stomach my next stop, Flames, at the Four Seasons Hotel, as I was already quite satisfied.
Tasting the Finer Things
It was nearly 3 p.m., and the drive was about 20 minutes. As the glimmer of the city whipped past my window, I thought about the advice the first cab driver had offered and concluded that he was right. Upon arriving at Flames, I instantly knew I had chosen the perfect place for sundowners. Perched atop a hill, the view from the terrace was breathtaking the grandeur of the City of Gold sprawled into the horizon, allowing me to feast on its beauty. As I waited to place my order, I admired the images I took of the view and the sumptuous lobby. Catching a glimpse of my screen, my waitress informed me that the hotel would be unveiling a new grand lobby and lounge in September and some soft refurbishments to all the rooms. I placed my order, and as I noted the irony of my cocktail’s name, aptly called Bikini Weather, my waitress quickly added, “All that’s missing is a pool,” and we shared a laugh. I had two more of these bubbly concoctions, lightly flavoured with bitter orange syrup and vodka to give it a kick, while the fizz of the MCC titillated my taste buds.
Dinnertime found me diligently scanning the menu. In the mood for fish, I ordered the Mauritian seabass, served with chargrilled cauliflower and baby marrow, and the squid ink pasta, accompanied by bonito miso beurre blanc. Though I had never tried seabass, I was more intrigued by the squid ink pasta. The entire meal was out of my comfort zone, but I was keen for the adventure, and my boldness was not unrewarded. The richness of the seabass paired deliciously with the freshness of the baby marrow. The meal felt like a meeting of familiar and complex flavours, and I was engulfed in the experience, that I was moved to send my compliments to the chefs. I decided to end my night with a simple and reliable hot chocolate as I revelled in the day’s success, chatting with the waiters as they stopped by my table to check on me.
An Ode to Summertime
My ride back to the hotel was serene. From the safety of my cab, I watched the rhythm of the city unfold as the night progressed. I thought about the day I’d had and the fullness of it all, both literally and metaphorically. Most importantly, I reflected on how my experience was just a sliver of what Jo’burg has to offer. Tomorrow, I will find myself fully immersed in the City of Gold, hungry for more adventures.
